The parts list is pretty much the same as for the 4 lamp system with the exception of the sockets for the lamps. 1. Sockets for the lamps, found in the local PnP for $1, look at many cars to find the ones that use the heaviest wire, these had #12 coming out of them. 2. The very useful LH fuse, clip from any later 240, get as much of the wire out as you can. 3. The mounting bar and "power block" from the drivers side fender of a 240. 4. Relays, found on the mounting bar, you will need 2 if you get the ones marked 12V 2X15A (pt# 0 332 015 012) the newer ones are marked12V 20/30A (0 332 204 101) and will only power one light each, hence the 3 shown here. 5. Shrink tubing, good stuff, better than tape. 6. Protective cover, neatens up the installation. |
Adding relays to your '86 and up 240 will increase the light output. How much depends on the condition of the lenses and type of bulbs in the headlights. I recomend the Sylvania Xtravision they gave about a 20% increase and the relays added about that much or a little more. It is really nice having white light instead of the yellowish beams I had before. If you haven't seen it yet please check out the page on decrease in volltage loss obtained by the addition of the relays. |
Adding relays to your '86 and up 240 will increase the light output. How much depends on the condition of the lenses and type of bulbs in the headlights. I recomend the Sylvania Xtravision they gave about a 20% increase and the relays added about that much or a little more. It is really nice having white light instead of the yellowish beams I had before. If you haven't seen it yet please check out the page on decrease in volltage loss obtained by the addition of the relays. |
The parts list is pretty much the same as for the 4 lamp system with the exception of the sockets for the lamps. 1. Sockets for the lamps, found in the local PnP for $1, look at many cars to find the ones that use the heaviest wire, these had #12 coming out of them. 2. The very useful LH fuse, clip from any later 240, get as much of the wire out as you can. 3. The mounting bar and "power block" from the drivers side fender of a 240. 4. Relays, found on the mounting bar, you will need 2 if you get the ones marked 12V 2X15A (pt# 0 332 015 012) the newer ones are marked12V 20/30A (0 332 204 101) and will only power one light each, hence the 3 shown here. 5. Shrink tubing, good stuff, better than tape. 6. Protective cover, neatens up the installation. |
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Measure out the lengths of #12 wire you will need and solder the wire to the stubs coming out of the sockets. I used Red and Blue for the power and Black for the grounds |
Getting the signal voltage for the relays is a matter of finding some .110 spade terminals and inserting them in the old light plugs. I found the narrow terminals required at a local electrical hobby shop. If you have 2 of the '015 012 relays you can take a low beam signal off each side and splice the wires together so the light out warning will not be triggered. If you are using other relays you will need to run a wire from each side of the low beam circuit to a seperate relay to prevent the warning light from coming on. The warning light will not come on if a light burns out but I'm guessing you will be able to tell. You can remove the bulb from the instrument panel but I prefer to keep the function to warn of burned out tail and brake lights. |
The relay bar sits up by the washer tank. Hook wires up to the relays, 85= to ground 86= trigger, ie power to switch relay on 30= power from battery, (alternator) 87 &87b = power out to lights. If your relays have 87 & 87a they will only power one light each, you will need 2X as many relays. Look on the older cars in the yard for the good relays |
Got to get a new camera, this one's really crappy for closeups. Here is one of the new sockets on the back of the housing. One nice thing about this system is if you have a failure of a relay or fuse on a dark night you can just remove the wires from the old plugs and re-attach them to the housing and be back on the road. Nothing is removed, cut, spliced or damaged on the old system at all. |
